Caring for your Gold
Caring for your Silver
Diamonds
Caring for your Diamonds
Gemstones
Birthstones
Caring for Gemstones
Pearls
Caring for Pearls
Gold purity is
measured by karats. Karat, sometimes represented as; "K" or "Kt." should not be
confused with "Carat" which is the unit of measure for diamond and gemstone
weight. Solid gold as it is found in nature is 24 karat gold. Unfortunately,
solid gold is far too soft for use in most jewelry and requires additional
metals, called alloys to be mixed in to make it suitable for jewelry
manufacturing. 18 karat gold has 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts alloy, 14 karat
has 14 parts pure gold and 10 parts alloy and 10 karat gold has 10 parts pure
gold and 14 parts alloy. 18 karat gold is still very soft and not ideal for
everyday wear, 14 karat gold is ideal for bridal jewelry as it is durable yet
soft enough to allow the jeweler to create fancy settings such as channel and
invisible settings. The desire to own gold dates back as far as the history of
mankind itself. The place of gold has been extraordinary in every society. In
earliest times, it assumed magical importance.
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Of all
the world's precious metals, only
Gold combines the
four basic characteristics that make it a universally and eternally treasured
possession.
The
naturally intense color and distinctive luster of gold combine to give this
precious metal its unique and lasting beauty. Gold's natural beauty is further
enhanced by the soft and exquisite shades of color achieved by combining it with
small amounts of other special metals.
Yellow,
pink, green and white gold's - each exquisite in its own right. There is always
fashion acceptance of all the colors and color combinations of gold. One of
today's most popular trends features combining colors of gold - yellow, white
and pink - in jewelry.
Gold
lasts, and lasts. Since it does not rust, tarnish or corrode, gold virtually
lasts forever. An example of this incredible durability is witnessed in the gold
coins found in sunken galleons centuries-old - they're as bright and shiny as
the day they were cast!
Today,
when you buy gold jewelry, you are buying enduring beauty. Reflecting the
properties of the precious metal itself, a gift of gold has always been the
symbol of lasting love and devotion.
Ease of
Workability - Gold has the best working qualities of any metal, thereby making
it the ideal precious metal for fine jewelry whose designs are meant to reflect
and appeal to so many different personalities.
When
buying gold jewelry, always look for a Karat such as 14k, & 18k stamped
somewhere on each piece to ensure yours is real gold. Europeans sometimes stamp
their gold pieces with 500 representing 14k or 750 representing 18k.
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Always
separate your gold jewelry in a compartmentalized jewelry box or keep them
individually wrapped. This protects against scratching.
Remove
all jewelry before showering or cleaning. Soap can cause a film to form on karat
gold jewelry, making it appear dull and dingy. By preventing the formation of
this film, you immediately reduce the occasions your pieces will need to be
cleaned.
To
clean your jewelry at home, you'll find many commercial cleaners available. In
addition, you will find a soft chamois cloth from any hardware store an
effective and inexpensive way to keep your pieces lustrous and shining.
For
certain gold jewelry, an 'ultrasonic' cleaning machine may be appropriate. The
machine can be purchased in many retail outlets.
Remove
tarnish with a prepared jewelry cleaner or by using soap and water mixed with a
few drops of ammonia.
Brush
with a soft bristle brush. An old toothbrush is perfect. After the soaping,
simply rinse with lukewarm water and allow to dry.
Grease
can be removed from karat gold jewelry by dipping the jewelry into plain rubbing
alcohol.
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Useful
Tips:
Remove jewelry when applying makeup and face powder.
Wash
hands after applying makeup and powder and before putting on jewelry. Keep your
jewelry in a dry place.
As with
other precious metals,
sterling silver will
oxidize with time. Properly maintained, silver improves with age and develops a
lush patina. Treat your silver well, care for it properly and it will reward you
with a long life and lustrous look.
Do
clean with a mild soap-and-water solution, allow water to bead up, and pat dry
with a soft cloth. For more stubborn dirt, a jewelry cleaner labeled for silver
use is appropriate.
Store
your silver in a cool, dry place, preferably in a tarnish preventative bag or
wrapped in a soft piece of felt or cloth. Store pieces individually so that they
don't knock together and scratch.
Don't
rub silver with anything other than a polishing cloth or fine piece of felt. Use
of tissue paper or paper towels can cause scratches because of the fibers in
these products.
Don't
expose to air and light when storing because it will cause silver to tarnish.
And, don't wear sterling silver in chlorine water.
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The
Diamonds Quality
Pyramid is a framework to help you compare diamonds. While all diamonds are
precious, those closest to the top of the pyramid -- possessing the best
combination of cut, clarity, carat weight and color -- are the earth's rarest,
most valuable and most beautiful to the eye.
CARAT
- The Larger a Diamond, the More Rare
Larger
diamonds are found relatively infrequently in nature, which places them at the
rarest level of the Diamond Quality Pyramid. What also makes a bigger diamond so
desirable is that it shows off a stone's fine color and cut, and therefore its
brilliance, to its best advantage.
A
diamond's size is measured in carat weight, and each carat is equal to 100
points. A .75 carat diamond is the same as a 75-point diamond or a 3/4 carat
stone.
While
larger diamonds are highly prized, diamonds of equal size may vary widely in
value and brilliance, depending on their qualities of clarity, cut, and color.
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CLARITY
- The Purer a Diamond, the More Brilliant
The
greater a diamond's clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is -- and
the higher it is on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.
Virtually all natural diamonds contain identifying characteristics, yet many are
invisible to the naked eye. Under the scrutiny of a jeweler's 10x-magnifying
loupe or microscope, natural phenomena -- called inclusions -- may be seen.
These are nature's birthmarks, and they may look like tiny crystals, clouds, or
feathers.
Diamonds categorized as internally flawless reveal no such inclusions. Flawless
stones are at the peak of the Diamond Quality Pyramid and are treasured for
their rarity and beauty. Diamonds with very, very small inclusions are graded as
VVS1 or VVS2. The larger the inclusion, the lower the grade and the less rare
the diamond. Inclusions that can be seen with the naked eye are graded I1 or I3.
The
number, color, type, size and position of surface and internal birthmarks affect
a diamond's value. Major inclusions can interfere with the path of light that
travels through a diamond, diminishing its brilliance and sparkle and therefore
its value.
COLOR
- The More Pure the Color in a Diamond, the More Rare
Diamonds are graded by color, starting at D and continuing through the alphabet.
Truly colorless stones, graded D, treasured for their rarity and value, are
highest on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.
While
many diamonds appear colorless, they may actually have subtle yellow or brown
tones and these color grades include P and Q. Although still beautiful, they
will be less rare and therefore less valuable. To appreciate the simple beauty
of each individual stone, you should compare diamonds side by side with a
jeweler.
"Fancy"
diamonds -- in well defined colors that include red, pink, blue, green and
canary yellow -- are highly prized and particularly rare.
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CUT
- The Better Cut a Diamond, the More Brilliant
A well
cut or faceted diamond, regardless of its shape, scintillates with fire and
light -- offering the greatest brilliance and value.
While
nature determines a diamond's clarity, carat weight and color, the hand of a
master craftsman is necessary to release its fire, sparkle and beauty. When a
diamond is cut to good proportions, light will reflect from one mirror-like
facet to another and disperse through the top of the stone, resulting in a
display of brilliance and fire.
Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow lose light that spills through the
side or bottom. As a result, poorly cut stones will be less brilliant and
beautiful -- and certainly less valuable -- than well cut diamonds higher on the
Diamond Quality Pyramid.
For
centuries, men and women have found that the sparkle and brilliance of a quality
diamond expresses their deepest emotions and symbolizes their enduring love. Yet
with many beautiful diamonds to choose from -- and no two alike -- how do you
pick the right diamond while spending wisely? The Diamond Quality Pyramid and
the 4Cs, along with the guidance of a trusted jeweler, will lead you to the
answer.
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THE 4Cs
- Key to the Diamond Quality Pyramid
To
establish a diamond's quality, jewelers examine each of the 4Cs -- cut, clarity,
carat weight and color. The combination of the 4Cs determines the value of a
particular diamond. For example, a colorless diamond is at the top of the
Diamond Quality Pyramid in color ... but if it lacks clarity, is small, or not
well cut, it will be of a lower value. The finest stones possess the rarest
quality in each of the 4Cs, and are the most valuable.
Strive
for a stone that offers the best combination of the 4Cs. Knowing a diamond's
place in the Diamond Quality Pyramid will help you to make an informed decision.
Ultimately, you'll discover the unique combination of the 4Cs that makes a
particular diamond the right choice for you. Its beauty and brilliance will
capture the true sentiment of the occasion.
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Even
though you may wear your diamond engagement ring 24 hours a day, you should
still give thought to its care.
Don't
wear it when you're doing rough work. Even though a diamond is durable, it can
be chipped by a hard blow.
Don't
let your diamond come in contact with a chlorine bleach when you're doing
household chores. It can damage and discolor the mounting.
Do see
your jeweler at least once a year and have him check your ring and other
precious pieces for loose prongs and wear of mountings. He'll usually give them
a professional "shine-up" too.
Putting
Diamonds Away -- When you're not wearing diamonds and precious jewelry, they
still require attention. Keep your precious pieces in a fabric-lined jewel case,
or a box with compartments or dividers.
lf you
prefer to use ordinary boxes, wrap each piece individually in tissue paper.
Don't
jumble your diamond pieces in a drawer or jewelry case, because diamonds can
scratch other jewelry-and can even scratch each other.
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Traveling With Diamonds -- The packing of your diamonds and other precious
pieces for travel should be given care.
There
are many types of carry-alls, especially designed for jewelry travel, available
in all price ranges. They come in all sizes, shapes and patterns. Most have
velvet pads inside to attach pins and earrings, and special compartments for
bracelets and necklaces. Pack a small plastic bottle of prepared jewelry cleaner
with your cosmetics. Then you can give your precious pieces a quick "shine-up"
any time.
Don't
leave your ring on the rim of a sink when you remove it to wash your hands. It
can easily slip down the drain.
Cleaning Your Diamonds
Diamonds get smudged and soiled and dusty. Lotions, powders, soaps, even the
natural skin oils, put a film on diamonds and cut down their brilliance.
Chemicals in the air can discolor the mounting of precious jewelry. Clean
diamonds "glow" because the maximum amount of light can then enter and return in
a fiery brilliance. It takes just a little care to keep them that way. Here are
four ways to clean diamonds. One of them is pretty sure to fit the time, place,
and the job.
Detergent Bath
Prepare
a small bowl of warm suds with any of the mild liquid detergents used in the
home. Brush the pieces with an eyebrow brush while they are in the suds. Then
transfer them to a wire tea strainer and rinse them under running water. Pat dry
with a soft lintless cloth.
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Cold
Water Soak
Make a
half-and-half solution of cold water and household ammonia in a cup. Soak the
pieces 30 minutes. Lift out and tap gently around the back and front of the
mounting with an old soft toothbrush. Swish in the solution once more and drain
on tissue paper.
Quick-Drip Method
Buy one
of the brand name liquid jewelry cleaners, with its kit, choosing the kind most
useful to you. Read the label and follow its instructions. Don't touch your
clean diamonds with your fingers. Handle your jewelry by its edges.
Ultrasonic Cleaner
There
are many types of small machines on the market that will clean, in a matter of
minutes, any piece of jewelry that can be dunked in a liquid. They consist of a
metal cup which you fill with water and detergent. When the machine is turned
on, a high-frequency turbulence creates the cleaning action. Since each machine
is slightly different, read the instructions very carefully before use.
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Your
desire to own or wear a colored gemstone isn't new or unique. Throughout all
civilizations, gems have held a fascination - sometimes even a legendary power -
for man.
The
mystery and romance of
Gemstones goes back
as far as we can trace - to those primitive days when man coveted these
beautiful stones as "charms" or "amulets" to ward off evil. And later, as man
became more sophisticated, the rarity and beauty of gems established them as the
ultimate symbol of status to the rich and powerful. Today, the pride of
possessing a rare and beautiful gemstone is as great as ever.
Most
simply stated, the majority of gemstones are minerals. (Important exceptions:
pearl and coral are animal origin; jet and amber are vegetable.) These minerals
have been crystallized as a result of the high temperatures and pressures
exerted by nature on the elements that form the earth's crust.
Of the
more than 3,000 minerals found on earth, only a small percentage qualify as
"gemstones" due to their beauty, durability, color and rarity. The most sought
after are transparent gems, drops of pure color cut from single crystals. These
gems were once divided into precious and semi-precious categories, but this is
no longer true today. Gem discoveries have added new varieties to the
traditional selection of ruby, emerald and sapphire. Some of these more unusual
gemstones command higher prices than more well known gemstones due to their
beauty and rarity. For example, fine jade and fine opal, tsavorite or
alexandrite would be more valuable than lesser quality diamonds or emeralds.
The
selection of fine-quality gemstones includes such stones as
alexandrite, amber, amethyst, aquamarine, chrysoberyl,
citrine, garnet, iolite, jade, kunzite, lapis lazuli, moonstone, opal, peridot,
sugilite, spinel, tanzanite, topaz, tourmaline, tsavorite, turquoise and zircon.
Each of these gemstones has a particular charm, color and identity.
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There
are several factors that determine the value (and price) of a gemstone:
Color
- The strength and purity of a gemstone's color is of prime importance. There is
no established "right" or "wrong" color, and there are literally thousands of
shades of red, blue and green, for example. Therefore, you should make your
selection according to your own personal taste.
Cut
- The cut of a gemstone is of extraordinary importance. The proper cutting
emphasizes the richness of the gemstone's inherent color, which is the focal
point of the gem's beauty that attracts the eye.
Clarity
- While the clarity of a gemstone is an important feature, it is equally
important to remember that completely "flawless" gemstones scarcely occur.
Inclusions are inherent to practically every gemstone and are nature's way of
adding variety and individuality to a gemstone. Even the most expensive contain
some inclusions.
Carat
Weight - Obviously,
the size or weight of a gemstone also affects its value.
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January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
January
- Garnet
Garnet
is the accepted birthstone for the month of January. It is also the accepted
anniversary gemstone for the second year of marriage.
When
most people think of garnet, they picture the dark red bohemian garnet that was
popular in Victorian times. You may be surprised to learn that garnets are found
in every color except blue, including brilliant green tsavorite garnet,
raspberry pink rhodolite garnet, and orange malaya garnet. Bright red "anthill"
garnets are found in Arizona. The Tsars of Russia favored rare green damantoid
garnets.
Garnets
offer enough variety in appearance to suit every taste, as well as an
outstanding price range to suit every pocketbook.
Legend
holds that Noah hung a large garnet in the ark for illumination. It reportedly
also gives its wearer guidance in the night, protection from nightmares, and
according to the Egyptians, is an antidote for snake bites and food poisoning.
It was also thought to have a special affinity with the blood.
Garnets
are durable and brilliant and will give years of pleasure.
As with
all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows,
and extreme temperature changes.
Garnets
are found in the U.S., Africa, Sri Lanka, Brazil and India
Birthstones
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February
- Amethyst
Amethyst
is the recognized birthstone for February and the accepted anniversary gemstone
for the sixth year of marriage.
Amethyst
is a variety of quartz, and comes in pale lilac to rich, deep purple shades.
Ideally, it is a deep medium purple with rose-colored flashes that give amethyst
its beauty and fire.
Because
of its abundance, it is readily available in all sizes and shapes. It is durable
and can be worn every day. Coupled with the folk legend of the Greeks that it
will prevent intoxication when worn, it becomes a most desirable gem!
Amethyst
was said to have a sobering effect on the wearer-not only those who indulged but
on those over-excited by love's passion as well. It has symbolized peace,
protection and tranquility. Some say it will prevent baldness and improve the
complexion, as well as protect from treason and deceit. Because royalty has
always adored the color purple, Amethyst
abound in the ornaments of ancient Greeks and Egyptians, and in the British
Crown Jewels.
It is
found mainly in Brazil, Uruguay and Zambia.
Birthstones
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March
- Aquamarine
Aquamarine
is the traditional birthstone for March. It is also the accepted anniversary gem
for the 19th year of marriage.
The
ideal color of aquamarine is a refreshing pastel sea blue. Stones with a clear
blue color without green or gray are generally the most valuable.
If you
are looking for a big, durable gemstone, Aquamarine
is readily available in larger sizes and is truly dramatic when cut in
rectangular or oval shapes. It is a member of the important beryl family, which
also includes emerald.
In
ancient times, the stone was said to aid seafarers; thus it is an excellent gift
suggestion for sailors or one who takes frequent cruises! To dream of aquamarine
signifies the making of new friends; to wear aquamarine earrings brings love and
affection. It is a universal symbol of youth, hope and health.
As part
of the normal finishing process, some aquamarines are heated to remove traces of
yellow.
To
maintain the brilliance of this beautiful gemstone, it should be immersed in
jewelry cleaner or in lukewarm soapy water and cleaned with a small bristle
brush.
Do not
use a home ultrasonic machine.
As with
all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from scratches and sharp
blows.
Aquamarine
is found mainly in Brazil, Nigeria, Zambia, Madagascar and Ukraine.
Birthstones
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April
- Diamond
Diamond is the
birthstone for the month of April. Besides being the most popular gemstone for
engagement rings, diamond is the accepted anniversary gem for the 10th and 60th
years of marriage.
The
name "diamond" comes from the Greek word "adamas" meaning
unconquerable-suggesting the eternity of love. In fact, diamonds have been the
traditional symbol of love since ancient Greece. Discovered about 2,500 years
ago in India, the ancients believed they were splinters from the stars, perhaps
crystallized lightening or hardened dew drops.
Although diamonds are associated with being a colorless stone, they are
occasionally found with a strong, bright color-green, red, pink, blue, canary
yellow and amber. These "fancy" colored diamonds are highly-prized.
Occasionally, to improve appearance, diamonds are laser-drilled and, sometimes,
a foreign substance is used to fill surface cavities or fractures. Diamonds may
also be irradiated and/or heated to induce "fancy" colors.
Even
though it is the most durable of gemstones, care should be taken to protect a
diamond from sharp blows. Household chemicals may discolor or damage the
mounting. To clean, you may use a jewelry cleaner, lukewarm soapy water and a
small bristle brush, soak in a half-and-half solution of cold water and ammonia
for 1/2 hour, or use a home ultrasonic machine with its recommended cleaner.
Birthstones
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May
- Emerald
Emerald
is the birthstone for the month of May. It is also the anniversary gemstone for
the 20th and 35th years of marriage.
Emerald
is one of the most highly-prized of all the gems. The name comes from the Greek
"smaragdos" which means green stone. The most prized is pure grass green.
Emeralds are often characterized by a garden of included crystals trapped
within, known as the "jardin", because under magnification you will see all
sorts of lovely patterns resembling foliage in a garden. A flawless, clear
emerald is very rare and is usually found in only small sizes. Small to medium
sized stones are often faceted in the "step" or emerald cut. The gem is also
lovely when cut into a cabochon or dome shape. Sometimes emeralds are even
carved.
According to legend, the wearing of emerald not only cured a wide range of
ailments, including low I.Q., poor eyesight and infertility, but also enabled
the wearer to predict the future.
As part
of the normal fashioning process, most emeralds are immersed in colorless oil or
resin so small voids are not as noticeable.
Care
should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows, household chemicals,
and extreme temperature changes. Do not use a home ultrasonic machine.
Emeralds
are found mainly in Colombia, Brazil, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Birthstones
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June
- Pearl
Pearl is the
birthstone for the month of June. It is also the accepted anniversary gemstone
for the 3rd and 30th years of marriage.
A pearl
is the product of an oyster's defense mechanism. When a foreign irritant is
introduced either by man (cultured) or naturally, the oyster immediately
surrounds it with layers of a substance called nacre. This forms the exquisite
gemstone know as pearl.
Pearls
come in a wide range of colors. They should be relatively free from skin
blemishes. The more perfectly round the shape the better. The higher the luster,
or "orient", the more valuable the specimen. The larger the pearl, the greater
the value.
Besides
the popular round shape, there are stylish mabe (large hemispherical cultured
pearls), fresh water (elongated in interesting shapes and colors), and South Sea
(large cultured pearls 10mm and up from Australia's and Indonesia's waters), to
name a few.
Pearls
have been recognized as the emblem of modesty, chastity and purity. They have
come to symbolize a happy marriage.
Avoid
household chemicals, cosmetics, hair sprays, and perfumes. Don't use ultrasonic
cleaners. Wash with mild soap and water and store in a protective chamois pouch
or tissue paper.
Moonstone
is sometimes used as an alternative by those born in June since it physically
resembles some pearls.
Birthstones
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July
- Ruby
Ruby
is the accepted birthstone for July. It is also the accepted anniversary
gemstone for the 15th and 40th year.
Ruby is
known as the "Lord of the Gems" because of its rarity and beauty. Derived from
the Latin word "ruber", it simply means red. Ruby, like sapphire, is a variety
of corundum and only exists as a true red in color. The finest color is a vivid,
almost pure spectral red with a very faint undertone of blue, as seen in Burmese
rubies which are considered the finest.
The
highest quality rubies are said to protect their owners from all kinds of
misfortune. A fine ruby assured the owner he would live in harmony with his
neighbors. It would protect his stature in life, his home and land. Its
protective powers were intensified when set in jewelry, and worn on the left
side. Many believed rubies possessed an inner flame which burned eternally.
As part
of the customary fashioning process, virtually all rubies are heated to
permanently improve their color and appearance.
As with
all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from scratches and sharp
blows.
The
finest rubies emanate from Burma, having been
mined there since ancient times. Other sources include Thailand, Vietnam, Sri
Lanka, Kenya, Tanzania, Cambodia, Afghanistan and India.
Birthstones
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August
- Peridot
Peridot
is the accepted birthstone for August. It is also the accepted anniversary
gemstone for the 16th year of marriage.
Peridot
should be a lively lime green, without a brownish or olive cast.
Peridot
is the child of volcanic action. Tiny peridot crystals are sometimes combed from
the black sands of Hawaii.
Peridots were favored by pirates, considered powerful amulets against all evil,
and when set in gold, were said to protect the wearer from the terrors of the
night. They had medicinal uses, too. If fashioned into a chalice from which
medicines were drunk, they intensified the effects of the drug.
Care
should be taken to protect peridot from scratches, sharp blows, household
chemicals and extreme temperature changes. Do not use a home ultrasonic machine
for cleaning.
The
peridot is abundant, and is available in larger sizes. It is found in Burma and
the U.S.
The
most important source of peridot in the world is the San Carlos Apache Indian
Reservation near Globe, Arizona, where it is mined by native Americans.
Large
sizes are mined in Myanmar (Burma) and peridot is also found in China.
Birthstones
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September
- Sapphire
Sapphire
is the September birthstone, as well as the accepted anniversary gem for the 5th
and 45th years of marriage.
Sapphire, a variety of corundum, comes in all colors except red (the red variety
being known as ruby), but is especially popular in deep blue. Fancy colored
sapphires-including pink, green, orange, and golden yellow-are magnificent when
combined in a necklace or bracelet.
Prince
Charles chose a blue sapphire for Princess Diana's engagement ring. The stone's
durability, combined with its beauty, makes it the perfect alternative for an
engagement ring.
Ancient
priests and sorcerers honored sapphire above all gems, for this stone enabled
them to interpret oracles and foretell the future. Ancients believed the Ten
Commandments were written on a sapphire tablet. Marriage partners put great
faith in the stone. If its luster dimmed, one knew his or her spouse had been
unfaithful. Sapphire refused to shine when worn by the wicked or impure.
As part
of the customary fashioning process, virtually all blue, yellow and golden
sapphires are heated to permanently produce or intensify their color.
As with
all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from scratches and sharp
blows.
Sapphire
is found in Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar (Burma), Kasmir, Australia,
Nigeria, Kenya, Tanzania, China and the U.S.
Birthstones
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October
- Opal
Opal
is the October birthstone, as well as the accepted anniversary gemstone for the
14th year of marriage.
The
well-known Roman naturalist Pliny described opal as "made up of the glories of
the most precious gems... the gentler fire of the ruby, the rich purple of the
amethyst, the sea-green of the emerald, glittering together..."
White
opal has a white or light body color with flashes of many colors. Black opal has
a black, dark blue, dark green or gray body color with vivid flashes of color
such as red, pink and bright green.
Opal
has symbolized hope, innocence and purity through the ages. In the Middle Ages,
young, fair-haired girls wore opals in their hair to protect its lovely blond
color. Medieval writers believed opal could render its wearer invisible when the
need arose. It was also said to have a beneficial effect on eyesight. It was
thought to banish evil spirits and favor children, the theater, amusements,
friendships and feelings.
Care
should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows, household chemicals,
and extreme temperature changes. To maintain the brilliance of opal, it should
be wiped clean with a soft cloth. Do not use a home ultrasonic machine or
jewelry cleaner.
Opal
sources are Australia, Mexico and the U.S.
Sometimes tourmaline is used as a birthstone
for October and spans the spectrum from red to violet. It also occurs in color
combinations in one stone which accounts for its popularity. It is not as
fragile as opal and is sometimes selected by those who prefer faceted stones.
Birthstones
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November
- Topaz
Topaz
is the accepted birthstone for November. Blue topaz is the accepted anniversary
gemstone for the 4th year; Imperial topaz for the 23rd year of marriage.
Most
people think of topaz as a transparent golden yellow gemstone. However, this
gemstone occurs colorless, as well as orange-yellow, red, honey-brown (dark
sherry), light green, blue and pink.
The
name topaz is derived from the Greek word meaning "to shine" and also implies
"fire". Orange-red "Imperial" topaz and pink colors are rare and most valuable.
The
lore, magic and romance of topaz goes back many thousands of years. It holds the
distinction of being the gemstone with the widest range of curative powers. The
Greeks felt it gave them strength. In addition, it supposedly cooled tempers,
restored sanity, cured asthma, relieved insomnia and even warded off sudden
death. Topaz is said to make its wearer invisible in time of emergency. It
proved the loyalty of associates by changing color in the presence of poison.
As part
of the normal fashioning process, most brownish to sherry brown topaz are heated
to produce a permanent pink color. Certain types of topaz are irradiated and
heated to produce shades of blue.
Topaz
is found mainly in Brazil, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and China.
Citrine
is often used an alternative to topaz because it appears in many of the same
colors as topaz. Unlike topaz, citrine is readily available and inexpensive even
in large sizes.
Birthstones
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December
- Turquoise
Turquoise
is the accepted birthstone for December and is the accepted anniversary gemstone
for the 11th year of marriage.
Colors
in turquoise range from sky blue (most desirable color) to blue green and apple
green.
The
name means "Turkish stone" because the trade route that brought it to Europe
used to come via Turkey. The best qualities are found in northeast Iran (Persian
turquoise). However, the United States southwest is now the world leader in
production.
The
deposits in Sinai were already worked out by 4,000 BC. At that time the stone
was used for jewelry, amulets and in the preparation of cosmetics.
During
the 16th century turquoise was used as currency by the Southwest Indians. They
believed the gemstone could bring spoils to the warrior, animals to the hunter,
and happiness and good fortune to all.
Although large quantities of beautiful turquoise which have not been color
enhanced are available, today's turquoise is commonly stabilized with plastic to
improve its color and durability. Chalky varieties of turquoise are normally
impregnated with oil or wax to enhance color. This color change may not be
permanent.
Care
should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows, hot water, and
household chemicals. Do not use a home ultrasonic machine.
Blue
topaz has become a popular alternative in recent years for those who prefer
faceted stones.
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Do wipe
your precious gemstone jewelry thoroughly with a clean, soft, damp cloth after
wearing. This will enhance the luster and assure that your jewelry is clean
before being stored. Store in a soft pouch when not being worn.
Don't
expose your precious gemstone pieces to salt water and harsh chemicals, such as
chlorine or detergents. These chemicals may slowly erode the finish and polish
of the gems. Use of hair spray, perfume and the presence of perspiration may
cause jewelry to dull. Also, do not subject gemstone jewelry to sudden
temperature changes. There are so many different types of colored gemstones,
some of which require specific care and cleaning procedures, it would be
impossible to enumerate all in this text.
Buying
a gemstone is your investment in lasting beauty. Treat it accordingly. A
gemstone's durability makes it capable of lasting for generations - but it must
be handled with care.
Keep
your jewelry separated when you put it away. Never let one item touch another,
and always put it on soft fabric.
Apply
your colognes and toiletries before you put on your jewelry.
Clean
your jewelry regularly. Ask your jeweler to recommend the proper cleaning
methods.
Bring
your gemstones to your jeweler every year. He can give them an expert cleaning,
and also check that the stones are secure in their settings.
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A
cultured pearl is a
pearl formed by an oyster, composed of concentric layers of a crystalline
substance called nacre deposited around an irritant placed in the oyster's body
by man.
Natural pearls are
formed by deposits of nacre around an irritant which accidentally lodges within
the body of an oyster.
Anything else which resembles a pearl but has a surface created by a
manufacturing process is an imitation or
simulated pearl - and
must be labeled as such!
The
value of a pearl comes from the unique ability of the crystalline nacre to
absorb, refract and reflect light, imparting a distinctive quality, termed
orient, to natural and cultured pearls.
Orient
is the deep inner glow and shimmering iridescent characteristic of sea-grown
pearls. The deeper the luster and iridescence, the more precious the pearl.
Size
contributes to the price of a pearl. As it is more difficult for oysters to grow
large pearls, they are scarcer. But two pearls of different sizes may be valued
the same if the smaller pearl is superior in orient to the larger.
Shape
determines value, too. The more symmetrical the shape, the more valuable.
Examples of symmetrical pearls are: round, pear shape, tear shape, oval. Pearls
of irregular and asymmetrical shape are termed baroque. Oysters grow pearls in
many different shapes, from perfect spheres to long flat angel wing pearls.
Surface
perfection
contributes to value. The surface of a perfect pearl appears satiny smooth. But
when viewed closely, natural or cultured pearls may appear to have irregular
surfaces which do not detract from value, as do disfiguring blemishes. You need
no magnifier to detect blemishes; when present, they are readily apparent to the
naked eye.
Rarity
increases the value of any jewel. Cultured pearls themselves are relatively
rare, as they can only be grown in limited areas of the world's oceans and take
years to grow. A perfect pair of pearls are very rare, because nature makes few
pearls exactly alike in orient, size, shape and color.
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Types
of pearls
Akoya
- The most familiar type of cultured pearl, grown in true pearl oysters off the
coasts of Japan. Akoya pearls are known for their lovely orient and warm color.
They rarely grow more than 9 mm in size.
South
Sea - Large cultured
pearls (10 mm and larger) grown in large oysters off the coasts of Australia.
Usually silvery in appearance, and sometimes not as lustrous as fine Akoya
pearls, South Sea pearls are rare and costly.
Burmese
- Large cultured pearls (10 mm and larger) grown in large oysters off the coasts
of Burma. Warmer in color tone than South Sea cultured pearls, rare and costly.
Mabe
- Large hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shells of oysters
instead of within the body. Less expensive than regular round cultured pearls
and, because of their hemispherical shape, used mounted in such jewelry as
earrings, rings and brooches.
Biwa
- A fresh water pearl cultivated in a mollusk only in Japan's Lake Biwa.
Smoother and more lustrous than fresh water pearls from China.
Fresh
Water - Pearls
cultivated in mollusks, not oysters, found in fresh water lakes and rivers.
Fresh water pearls generally are elongated in shape and have a milky translucent
appearance. Their wide range of interesting shapes and colors make up in fashion
appeal for their relatively low value.
Keshi
- Tiny pearls, some a little bigger than a grain of sand, which form naturally
in many cultured pearl oysters.
When
choosing cultured pearls, look for luster and orient in the shadow area of the
pearl, not in the area upon which the light is shining. Clear color tones, not
dull or muddy. Cracks, chips or disfiguring blemishes.
In
addition, all pearls in a strand should blend well together, particularly in
regard to luster, orient and color. Roll a strand of pearls along a flat surface
to determine if all pearls are strung through their exact centers. All pearls
should roll evenly, without an eccentric wobble.
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Selecting necklaces
Choose
a cultured pearl necklace for its effect on your appearance and personality.
Long necklaces are slinky and sexy. Short necklaces can be demure or
sophisticated. Dog collars enhance a long neck. Longer strands slenderize and
appear to elongate the neck. For fair skinned women, roseate hued pearls are
most flattering. Cream and gold color pearls set off darker skin tones best.
Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:
Choker
- 15" to 16" in length. Should nestle around the base of the neck.
Princess - 18" in length. Halfway between choker and matinee length.
Matinee
- 22" to 23" in length. Should fall to the top of the cleavage.
Opera -
30" to 36" in length. Should fall to the breastbone.
Sautoir
or Rope - Any pearl necklace longer than opera length.
Dog
Collar - Multiple strands of pearls fitting closely around the neck.
Bib -
Multiple strands of pearls, each shorter than the one below, nested together in
one necklace.
Graduated - A necklace composed of pearls which taper downward in size from
large pearls in the center.
Uniform
- A necklace which appears to be composed entirely of pearls of the same size,
though there generally is a slight difference in size between the center and the
end pearls for a more proportionate look.
Let
your expert jeweler customize your necklace so that its proportions and color
tones are exactly matched to yours.
Your
cultured pearl wardrobe should consist of matching pearl necklace, earrings and
bracelet. Add to it with a ring, a variety of clasps, brooches and a tiara or
hairpiece. A long strand of cultured pearls, with invisible clasps at several
points along its length, is very versatile. It can be shaped into many different
styles, such as a dog collar, a choker, or a bib.
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Cultured Pearls are precious jewels and should be treated as such.
Don't
toss them carelessly into a purse or jewel box where they can become scratched
by hard metal edges or harder stones.
Don't
expose them to acid-based hair sprays, cosmetics, or perfumes.
Don't
clean them with chemicals or abrasives.
Do
treat pearls gently. Place them in a chamois bag or wrap them in tissue when
putting them away.
Do put
on pearls after applying cosmetics, hair sprays and perfume.
Do wash
your pearls with mild soap and water after taking them off. This will remove all
traces of perfume, cosmetics or hair spray from the pearls.
Do
bring your pearls back to your jeweler for restringing once a year. Cosmetics
and ordinary wear weaken and stretch the nylon threads on which the pearls are
strung. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Do have
pearls strung with a knot between each pearl. This will prevent loss of pearls
if the string should break.
